A sharing of sustainable fashion
Lily & Noon
Introduction
With the environmental destruction and ecological imbalance, the topic of “Sustainable Fashion " is getting more and more popular. In addition to innovation and scientific R&D in various supply chains, we also burden a significant social responsibility as a consumer.
What you may not know about sustainability
1. "Allies" of sustainable fashion
After thinking about it, the theme of sustainable fashion is one of the greatest inspirations I have received during my study and work in the United States. Although one of our friends has shared this theme before, there is still a long way to truly achieve "sustainable", no matter how much emphasis is needed. So, let's continue to talk about sustainable fashion tonight.
Green and environmental protection is probably the most familiar and primitive concept of sustainable fashion. Protecting the environment, reducing the damage to the ecological balance, saving resources, go green is our original understanding of sustainable fashion.
When it comes to sustainability, many people think it is about environmental protection, but it is far more than that. Sustainability is a topic that covers many content and fields. On the Internet, sustainability-related issues have also been extended to production, such as #zero waste, fast fashion versus #slow fashion, #recycling, #degradable, #recycled materials, etc.
2. About the category of sustainable fashion
#Zero waste (zero waste cropping)
It was the first thing I learned when I came into contact with sustainable fashion. It turns out that zero waste is not really "zero". Zero-waste, first of all, refers to the field of clothing design. Most designs are considered from the perspective of cloth utilization: they can reduce tailoring, scientific typography and rational utilization. Do you know which clothing types or styles have such characteristics?
Around us, such as Hanfu, Indian saree, Muslim burqa and other traditional culturally-oriented clothing, all have this kind of small cut, full cloth utilization characteristics. This kind of fabric utilization and design often has no complicated and precise details, and the utilization efficiency of fabrics will be higher.
But although this kind of whole cloth design is easy to take off, it will also make people feel less secure. Will it be stripped out? This worry appears because this method is different from the usual "opening way" we dress, mainly designed such as belt binding or hidden buttons on both sides. But in fact, this is just a kind of reference, and it is not necessary to copy all sorts of inconveniences. I think it is unnecessary to improve these problems that make us inconvenient while learning from these traditional clothes. There is a lot of professional information about the clothing and textile industry in WGSN. Many designers, fabric designers, fashion modelling, fashion media, etc., can find a lot of inspiration.
In addition to minimizing the waste caused by cutting in layout design, another point is typesetting. We now have a computer layout, which can directly input the data we need and automatically optimize it by the computer. An important point is the width of the cloth. Generally, many companies will have an exceptional typesetting technician, who will enter all the demanding requirements on the computer software, then arrange the layout within a fixed range, print out a whole piece of pattern paper, and then formally cut it. But the hardware and software of a typesetting system add up to a high cost. Therefore, the company that has done this can be done. Suppose it is a small company or a small brand with an original design and a start-up. In that case, it may choose to manually or outsource it to a particular person for computer typesetting. But this will increase some of the cost.
When it comes to manual typography, can you imagine that scene? We can starts with the characteristics of the cloth. The weaving fabric is directional. To maximize the material's application, manual typesetting must be paid to parallel to the fabric's cloth pattern, that is, the grainline, and cannot be perpendicular to the width direction. When it comes to oblique cutting or ring design, it will consume more cloth than rectangles, and more attention should be paid to reasonable arrangement and utilization.
For example, as shown in the figure above, there are rules in the direction. Therefore, the process of manual typesetting is very energy-consuming. When it comes to computer typesetting, we often use CAD. When typesetting with CAD, if you encounter unique patterns, you need to do a fit between different plates, and the cloth should be made according to the design requirements. If the fabric cannot be changed, the design can be modified appropriately.
#Slow fashion
Fast fashion relative #slow fashion In the concept of sustainable environmental protection, there is also an understanding that it is good design and excellent products to wear more and use it for a long time: fast fashion, fast new, close to the trend, strong imitation, large number of styles. Fast fashion is not entirely a sustainable opposite, but fast fashion is easy to encourage consumers to consume irrationally, thus causing more waste. Opposite/conflict/blame is not conducive to our joint efforts to solve problems. However, whether it is a fast-fashion or slow fashion, there are shortcomings that we need to face and scientifically and effectively improve actively.
H&M, the fast-fashion leader, is also the first brand to use recycled linen, silk plant fibres, recycled jeans and other brands to invest in the environmental protection series of clothing. And there are also many "luxury waste" problems in high-end brands, making the benchmark of sustainable fashion confusing. For example, the greenhouse gas emissions generated by a fashion week are enough to reach the first small country's total emissions in a year. And middle and high-end brands may also share production factories with fast fashion brands. There is also the same problem with artificial exploitation, which I will go more in-depth later.
#Recycling
Making clothes live like clothes and achieving parallel recycling is a beautiful vision of sustainable fashion. Do you have any experience with recycling or buying used clothes? As you know, like paper products, not all paper can be recycled in the furnace, and not all ready-to-wear can be recycled. Nowadays, many people don't repair clothes and buy new ones. That is the biggest reason why fast fashion is in power, accelerating trading and exacerbating waste. Although many brands are now recycling and recycling, the process of using waste materials to make recycled fabrics is also too complicated, and the secondary resource consumption generated cannot be underestimated. The cost of remade products is high, and the quality may not meet the Chinese people's requirements. We once returned a windproof coat made of remade fabric, with a retail price of nearly 10,000 yuan, but the seams were rough, the material was not correctly handled, and there were many grey spots on the white. Although Europeans may think it is natural, it must not be sold in China. Therefore, to achieve true sustainability and environmental protection through recycling, it also depends on how manufacturers can solve technical difficulties in the future.
The theme of sustainable environmental protection has a long way to go. This is not a simple business activity, but the "scientific research and development" invested in colossal time, energy and funds because it all involves the nature of the fabric itself. What kind of material the designer uses to do what type of design is also one of the factors affecting the product's life.
There are many other kinds of sustainable fashion, which are just some examples.
Fabric Industry
1. Brief introduction of fabric
Sustainable, the most direct direction is to use natural raw materials, such as our common four kings: cotton, hemp, bamboo and silk. These raw materials include plant fibres and protein fibres. When using natural raw materials, we also need to know their respective attributes and some basic concepts. Each ingredient has its features, such as cotton. Many people like pure cotton because it is soft, absorbent, and does not quickly produce allergies; for example, human-made fibres and chemical fibres are different. Although bamboo is a natural raw material, bamboo fibre is an artificial fibre made of crushing and other ingredients. But human-made threads are not necessarily chemical fibres.
Silk clothes give people the feeling that they are silky and thin. With the corresponding weaving methods, they can meet different needs. These traditional materials are common in the market. Of course, in fast fashion, the main components of chemical fibres such as ester acrylic fibre are mostly used because they are easy to take care of, strong enough, and low cost. This momentum is not easy to reverse, but the environment can't stand it. But before sitting in the village this time, I did some data collection and saw some exciting fabric technology.
I have seen several foreign companies focus on plastic recycling to make materials. For example, this company called Mango Materials San Francisco Bay Area focuses on sustainable materials and technology. Environmentally friendly materials such as degradable fabrics made of ester waste materials and YOPP PHA through industrial methane are used for 3D printing, moulding, plastic film, textile yarn manufacturing.
Aquafil Italian artificial fibre company specializes in nylon yarn made of marine waste fishing nets, plastic products, industrial plastics, and materials from textile burials used in swimming clothing. Although chemical fibres are made, they have realized waste utilization, reduced the burden on the environment, and is also a positive force.
There are also some new fabrics under development. Some of these fabrics do not need water or toxic dyes, or fortifiers in the production process so that the full supply is 100% sustainable, which is too powerful. But what makes me most excited is vegetable leather. There is a kind of pineapple leather, and some call it Banantex. Some call it Piatex. I also learned that grape leather, even invented by Italians, is called wine leather, which is related to the wine industry by definition. It is also mentioned in the article of R.I.S.E Sustainable Laboratory. This wine leather is pure plant-friendly leather with a leather texture combined with grape skin stems/leathers/seed fibres and natural oils. The fabric does not need water or uses any acidic substances and heavy metals in the manufacturing process.
2. The past and present life of ready-to-wear shoes and bags
The reason why I talk about the past and present life of ready-to-wear shoes and bags is actually to talk about the life cycle and closed-loop cycle of a single product and the reuse of parallel uplink and downstream resources.
The first step to sustainability is to extend the life of the product itself. While the usage rate is high, it can also ensure durability, and the function and nature will not be much different from the old and new issues. Durability itself is the most intuitive determinant condition of sustainability, and durability is the best performance of sustainability. Therefore, this is the task of fabric designers, clothing designers, and consumers to cooperate. The style is classic and not afraid of outdated, the fabric is in place, and the wearability is genuinely improved.
The second point is that a group friend said Remake before. By dyeing, cutting holes, shortening, stitching, and making a little change, there is only one piece of discarded clothing. Please don't do it with small good, don't do it with evil. If you accumulate less, you make more. In this way, we will save a lot of energy and reduce the burden on the environment.
In recent years, handicraft transformation services have also emerged. Many people give their famous brand bags to professional handicrafts to be improved or upgraded to two treasures. I think this is a terrific virtuous circle. From the perspective of customers, you can get new gems; from the standpoint of old things, you can get new life; from artisans' perspective, skills can be reflected in inheritance. The whole thing is the call for environmental protection, sustainable propaganda!
Also, don't forget that we can also recycle up and down. The waste recycling mentioned earlier is typical upward utilization. Nike sneakers have a series of recycled fabrics. Many brands have recycled wool, polyester fabrics made of PET plastic products, jewellery made of glass recycling, etc.
Fashion Ecosystem
1. Discussion on Economic Benefits
The formation of the fashion ecosystem is an indispensable part of sustainable fashion." The cost of sustainable" is relatively high. The general consumer still prefers the fast fashion category with high-cost performance. Everyone's understanding of sustainable fashion and recognizing specific practices and practical support is probably also the more significant challenge to do sustainable fashion at this stage. Of course, this also involves operation and management, which needs to be further integrated and improved.
Have you ever learned about the new membership brand SINGULAR SOCIETY launched by H&M? Under this brand, only members can buy its clothing. The brand relies on membership fees to survive rather than the price of the product. Depending on the classic and simple style, reducing unnecessary waste in design and production, and driven by the advantages of high quality and low price, the demand side has a guarantee. This kind of on-demand output directly eliminates the possibility of unsalable ready-made garments and inventory trouble.
This is the way to target many supermarkets. The exclusiveness of the membership system attracts potential consumers who are not members to join. To a certain extent, let the brand understand the preferences/demands/values/purchase intentions of its service objects more clearly, improve service quality, and consolidate customer loyalty, which is also a good business strategy. If the product is well done, there will be a good moat, and in terms of economic effect, there will be more contribution.
2. Sustainable supply chain
Regarding sustainable supply chain, I want to introduce blockchain to you. I think most people have heard or understood this concept. Blockchain, one of Bitcoin's leading technologies, is a technical means of confidentiality/trust. I believe this technical means can also make a difference sustainably.
A friend of mine is a blockchain fan. I highly recommend this technology to him, and he inspired me to come up with this idea. Supply chain transparency and information security, if there is a blockchain escort, can effectively record all kinds of the required information. Achieving real-time tracking and protecting the process information from tampering can also provide definite fidelity and anti-counterfeiting proof.
Blockchain technologies such as fabric tracking, second-hand luxury goods trading, limited edition clothing, shoes and bag trading, fashion-related activities, cross-border transportation and payment can significantly reduce fraudulent counterfeit transactions.
From here to being a consumer, privacy and security are adequately protected, purchasing products are guaranteed, and participating in fashion-related commercial non-commercial activities can be improved by people-oriented shopping and service experience. From this, I think this is also a development angle of sustainable fashion. On the one hand, make process tracking in the supply chain transparent so that consumers know which can be purchased with confidence; on the other hand, improve and optimize the slow part of the industry, and grasp sustainability from product DNA.
Social Morality
1. How to understand social justice in sustainable fashion
Social justice includes social responsibility, public welfare, morality, human nature, ethics and other contents. We need to save ourselves! Therefore, the greatest motivation and strength of sustainability comes from each of us.
2. Humanistic care
The True Cost is a documentary that we should learn about. I still remember that when I was in the first plate-making class at school, the teacher assigned us the first homework to watch the documentary and said earnestly, "I have never repurchased H&M or ZARA." I am still impressed by her solemn expression at that time.
In this documentary, the pollution and harm of the fashion industry to the human living environment are exposed. In the context of globalization, the impact on the development of local initiatives in developing countries, especially as producers, the problems of cheap labour and their conditions for human rights protection, and hidden dangers caused by consumer psychology, etc.
In 2013, Bangladesh, one of the world's largest exporters of cheap fashion, suffered a square collapse accident. All 1,134 victims came from local clothing factories. The responsible person in charge forced workers to work as usual despite the building's cracks, which led to what The New York Times called "the worst disaster in the history of global industry". The message from #whomakeyourclothes, #imadeyourclothes launched on Instagram the first two years, is: Look around the world and focus on issues such as human rights exploitation and gender differential treatment of clothing manufacturers. This documentary and these movements allow more people to understand the little-known bitter and sweaty stories behind fashion and shining. As a "fashionable people" member, we know that there would be no fashion empire without them. If their interests cannot be reasonably guaranteed, let alone sustainable, even the industry's sustainable development will be difficult to step forward. Therefore, while we consider promoting technological renewal and improving efficiency in adopting and implementing sustainable models, we must consider both people/things, including people and animals.
That is also why using many chemical fibres in imitation leather is not sustainable, but the extensive use of animal fur in fashion is also unsustainable. The various experiments and physical torture in animals are undoubtedly inhumane. Cruelty-free has also been included in a significant focus of sustainable fashion and has attracted increasing attention. And raising awareness is already the most direct and influential sustainability support! For these problems, the improvement and implementation of relevant laws and regulations are also essential for sustainability. We only say nothing or pretend to do something, which is a cure for the symptoms rather than the root causes.
3. Raise awareness
Everyone understands its importance so that I won't repeat it. Here I share an interesting point of view: a guest in the round table pie hosted by Dou Wentao said, "Severance is the most expensive way of life, and the person who can spend the most money is separation from the crowd". For example, empty all the clothes and living utensils in the cabinet, but the cabinet will never be thrown away. After some time, the cabinet will be put. Refill the child.
Breaking away is an excellent way to organize life and mood, but not everyone can do it. Of course, this guest talks about people who misunderstand "separating" or a living habit that is inconsistent with needs and actions. I immediately thought of this kind of example of fierceness and "right decision" but still controlled by my family's desire.
Excuses aside, Less is more applies at any time! Behind happiness is a payout. People must have the desire, and minimalism is the abandonment and restraint of desire. That's why I like minimalism. It is aesthetic appreciation and minimalism, representing a kind of non-humility, no excess, no lack, which is what sustainability is needed. Each of us is moving forward at different speeds and paces on sustainable paths." Don't do good little, don't do evil little." For sustainability, we don't have to ask one to be 100% perfect. What we need is that everyone is imperfect.
Summary
I. Things you don't know about sustainable fashion
1. "Allies" of sustainable fashion
#zero waste, #slow fashion, #eco-friendly, #recycle #degradable #recycled materials #environmental. Under the common concept of humanity's destiny, the whole world is constantly reforming and embarking on a sustainable path.
2. Myths about sustainable fashion
(1) Zero waste is not a real "zero" waste.
(2) The opposites of fast fashion may not be sustainable.
(3) Recycling is not that simple
II. Textile industry
1. Brief introduction of fabric
Fabric Fibers Distinction: Types of plants/proteins/artificial/chemicals.
New Recycled Fabric: Vegan Sustainable Leather Made From Grapefruit Slag/Pineapple
There are also the research and development results of new sustainable recycled fabric technology companies.
2. The past and present life of ready-to-wear shoes and bags
Durability is a direct embodiment of sustainability. Parallel up and down cycles can help your life extend and reuse, which requires the joint efforts of fabrics, clothing design and consumers.
III. Fashion Ecosystem
1. Discussion on Economic Benefits
The use of the membership system in H&M's new brand can attract customers, improve consumer loyalty, establish moats, and better concentrate on improving product quality and service. It is a good business strategy.
2. Sustainable supply chain
Escort the transparency of supply chain and information security and improve people-oriented shopping and service experience.
IV. Social justice
1. How to understand social justice in sustainable fashion
Sustainability itself is the rigid demand for human destiny. The greatest motivation and power of sustainability comes from each of us.
2. Humanistic care
In adopting and implementing sustainable models, we should consider promoting technological renewal and improving efficiency. At the same time, we must give full consideration to both people/things.
3. Raise awareness
People must have the desire, and minimalism is the abandonment and restraint of desire.
